Your Most Essential Skincare

“What’s the best sunscreen?” you asked. “The most expensive one,” said no doctor ever. (an updated repost)

Welcome readers, old and new! If you find yourself happy to have washed up on the luxurious pink sands of HNTFUYF, please don’t forget to tap that little ❤️ above. I’m reposting this essay as a reminder that if you plan to spend a good part of today outside, please be safe! Wear your sunscreen!

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Hello, there, You! Taking up three seats with a protective parasol, a straw bag, and wearing a straw hat (over that cute bucket hat), a upf50+ shirt, and… hey, wait a minute! Those slides look familiar. Are you the same person who asked about age spots? I’m glad you’re taking sun protection seriously. Oh, and I love the cheerful sunglasses. Your question, please?

Q: Seriously, what’s the best sunscreen? Chemical, physical, mineral, vegetable? Is my SPF 30 moisturizer enough? What about sensitive skin? Can I use last year’s tube? Are European and Asian sunscreens better? Help!

A: As you may have guessed, there’s no such thing as a vegetable sunscreen (I Googled it.) Yes, most European and Asian sunscreens are more effective than those produced in the U.S. but for today’s purposes, I encourage you to love the one you’re with: If it’s SPF 30 or a bit higher, it’s good enough as long as it’s on your face.

I’ll tackle chemical sunscreens first. Those have active ingredients such as avobenzone and oxybenzone that the skin absorbs and that convert ultraviolet light from the sun into heat, which (somehow) keeps UV rays from penetrating. If you want a fuller explanation, and other more detailed information about how sunscreen works, go here. Dermatologist (and sunscreen aficionado) Ellen Gendler recommends this one and this one.

Mineral (or physical) sunscreens like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide sit on the skin’s surface and deflect UV rays as well as absorb UV light. I think of this process as doing the exact opposite of what the aluminum reflector I used to hold under my chin was meant for when, as an idiot teen, I purposefully soaked up damaging rays in my backyard.

So, which to choose, chemical or mineral? Facial plastic surgeon Michelle Yagoda believes chemical sunscreen is not a good option for those with sensitive skin, topical allergies, or for children under six months because the chemical reaction activated by the sun can cause irritation. She prefers mineral (physical) sunscreen; it causes less inflammation and can give better coverage with fewer ingredients. Mineral sunscreens tend to be more expensive (usually, the higher a formula’s zinc concentration, the higher the price; a minimum of 7% zinc is recommended) but Yagoda believes they’re worth it. Here’s the one I wear daily. It might leave a slightly white cast on darker skin tones; if that’s you, here’s a more suitable option. Find Gendler’s recommendations here, along with her impassioned and informative screeds about sunscreen, in general.

As for your SPF 30 moisturizer, it is enough for a non-beach day… until you need to reapply sunscreen after a few hours. Who likes reapplying moisturizer or sunscreen every few hours? Not me. That’s why I love these brush-on sunscreens. Even though one of my life goals is to carry as little as is humanly possible, I always have one of these on me in warmer months. They’re easy to apply, non-drippy, and compact—so terrific for traveling.

What else? Oh, expiration dates. Sunscreens are required by the FDA to retain their original strength for three years. There should be an expiration date on the product—but because you’re using sunscreen daily (and of course you are), that will probably wear off. Unsure about how old the product is? Toss it and buy another. Keep the new one away from excessive heat (in a glove compartment, for example) and, along with your face, out of the sun.

I don’t expect you need further encouragement to wear sunscreen. Still, three more things worth sharing. One, this startling statistic from the Skin Cancer Foundation: Photo aging accounts for 90% of visible skin aging. I take that to mean that if you never exposed yourself to the sun, your complexion would look something like the skin on your butt. (I encourage you to check out the skin on your bottom; you will likely realize a profoundly missed opportunity.)

Two: A few years ago, I discovered a small study that found daily use of broad-spectrum sun protection may also visibly reverse existing sun damage, including rough texture, lack of clarity, and hyperpigmentation. Cool, right?

Finally, if you care to read about my experience with basal cell skin cancer—and to see a photo several people advised me not to show in O, The Oprah Magazine—head here. It’s a cautionary tale.

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Now, scoot!

May you and all you love be protected.
May you offer your care and compassion to the world.