After poking around in the lives of a few generous civilians here in Japan—as well as many more in the U.S.—it’s clear to me we share a common skincare belief: that we should be doing more to preserve or enhance the appearance of our complexion, no matter how healthy it already looks.
Japan’s cosmetics and personal care market was around $35 billion a few years ago, making it the third largest after the U.S. and China. There’s a greater focus in Asia on whitening and brightening (along with anti-aging and moisturizing) but bottom line: Improvement is the goal. Which brings me to a curiosity I recently came across. During my long tenure as a beauty editor, I never became acquainted with glutathione. I only discovered it because my daughter-in-law mentioned it during a conversation about some preferred dermatologic treatments in Japan. It’s thought to help lighten the skin and is available in topicals, supplements, and in an IV infusion combined with other supposed brightening agents.
All I could think was, They’re shooting it up?! Skincare speedballs?! and immediately began an online search, which yielded the news that glutathione is just a combination of familiar amino acids with antioxidant properties. When I asked HNTFUYF DermDiva Heidi Waldorf to weigh in, she confirmed it’s touted as a skin-lightener and used in IV drips in Asia, India, and in the U.S. Have you heard of it? Have you tried it? The science behind it seems weak (Waldorf could find only the same small studies I found). And she points out that with an IV drip, there’s a risk of severe allergic reaction and thyroid/renal complications.
Nice to meet you, glutathione. A date? How about never? Is never good for you?
While I was getting acquainted with glutathione, a reader emailed about another skincare ingredient: human fibroblast conditioned media, or as she called it “Human fibroblast whatnot.” She had a pressing question: What the heck is it?
Our reader was referring to growth factors, which are…OMG I’ve already spent too much time trying to unwind the tangled coil that is the definition of growth factors in skincare. So, I’m going to instead refer you to the most comprehensive story I’ve read about it and let you wallow in the dense (and, as I remember it, stinky) stew of information.
Because it was recommended to her, our reader was asking specifically about the $230/oz SkinMedica TNS Recovery Complex, the first beauty product with human growth factors (you may remember some scrutiny around it, because it contains a blend of proteins derived from fibroblasts of neonatal foreskin).
If, like our reader, you’re having a moment of FOMO, shake it off. I once again turned to Waldorf, who, though she confirmed that growth factors have been shown to improve the skin’s ability to repair itself, jumped nimbly to other less exotic and less pricey ingredients you’d be correct in assuming are equally advantageous to wear facially. She recommends the blend of proprietary peptides and antioxidants in Alastin Restorative Skin Complex, which at $199/oz is still about $169 more than I’ll pay for a non-prescription serum or skin cream. My two cents? I’ve yet to see a topical over-the-counter ingredient (except for retinoids, the vitamin-A derivatives) that can make an appreciable (by which I mean visible), worth-the-investment difference in reducing some of the signs of aging.
Pleased to see you, spendy growth factors. Sayonara for now!
Having completed the New Acquaintances portion of the program, we can now move on to Old Friends. The sublime Jadzia Tirsch, senior VP of corporate communications at Shiseido Americas, and equally sublime Jenny B. Fine, executive beauty editor at WWD, were in Tokyo last week for a story about Shiseido’s 150-year anniversary. Here we are, dutifully masked, post catch-up in Nakameguro, one of my favorite shopping areas.
More about love in Tokyo…
I’ve been mystified by the building below because it looks like a medieval prison situated in the middle of a quiet, residential neighborhood not far from my apartment. I finally asked a friendly someone, “Why a prison here?”
“Ah!” she said. “That’s not a prison. That’s a love hotel.”
Take another look at the photo. (Zoom in if you can.) Does that look like your idea of a love hotel? I had the brilliant idea to Google “Love hotels near me,” and suddenly it all became clear. Here’s a link to a description of the Alpha In, one of the most famous love hotels in Tokyo. Among the reviews, this comment stands out: “screaming is acceptable but opening the window is not possible as it will bother the neighbors…”
Earning second place today in the Dept. of Quirkiness, this news about Covid in Japan from Mary Carpenter at My Little Bird:
For masking alone, Japan has shown the greatest benefits—with the lowest death rate among the world’s wealthiest nations, and one-twelfth of that in the United States. Building on a tradition of social conformity, public pressure has increased mask-wearing there—with the buzzword “face pants,” indicating the similar embarrassment of lowering a mask to that of lowering one’s underwear in public.
Yeesh, I’ll never look at a man’s nose the same way again.
Book Club News: New Book!
Though I’ve been a latecomer to audiobooks, once I discovered them I couldn’t get enough. I borrow them from the public library, but as I’ve mentioned before, sometimes the library snatches them back before I can finish. So I'm happy to share I'm partnering with Chirp to organize an audiobook club of biographies and memoirs called “Unfiltered Women.” Two things: It’s free to subscribe and Chirp offers great deals. Plus, you obviously get to keep the book to listen to at your leisure.
Full transparency: At this point, I’m choosing not to receive payback for sign-ups, but I do hope to get the benefit of introducing HNTFUYF to Chirp subscribers.
Here’s how it works. Every other month I’ll announce a new book club pick that we’ll listen to together. You’ll have a chance to share your thoughts on the book a few weeks later and hear what other readers thought, too. My second pick is the memoir H Is for Hawk by Helen Macdonald. I’ve now listened to this book twice and I’m sure I could listen to it again and still get fresh insights into the author and find new poetry in her language. This is a story about how a woman deals with the sudden death of her beloved father by retreating into herself, keeping only one relationship alive: with Mabel, a goshawk she trains. Goshawks are notoriously difficult and Macdonald struggles to domesticate her. Mealtimes are especially grisly, but Macdonald seems immune to the blood and guts she often holds in her bare hands or stuffs into a pocket. She describes in minute detail the primeval, prehistoric beauty of the bird and her intelligence. The fear of abandonment is strong and Macdonald’s grief seems bottomless till she understands viscerally the healing power of human connection. Like me, you’ve probably never considered becoming a falconer—and you’ll be glad you didn’t when you’ve finished this book! But you’ll get inside the head of someone very different from you, and it’s a fascinating place to be.
To get started, go to chirpbooks.com/val and press FOLLOW to join my club. (Again, it’s free and there is NO commitment.) There, for a limited time, you can buy H Is for Hawk for only $2.99 (normally $19.95), including a 50% discount with code VAL50 if it's your first Chirp purchase.
Val Asks You
Don’t be shy! What’s your most vexing or intractable appearance issue? Send your beauty-related questions to valeriemonroe@substack.com. If I don’t have a good answer, I’ll find someone who does.
HNTFUYF, a Payola-Free Zone
Readers, a few of you have wondered aloud to me if I get a cut from sales when I mention a product. I do not. I only mention products I’d like to buy myself, and therefore think you might like, too. I share this so you know my recommendations are offered without obligation. The only financial contributions I receive from these posts are from those of you—thank you!—who have generously subscribed. All posts and the archive are free; there’s no paywall. Please do become a paying subscriber if you can.
New Acquaintances, Old Friends
Wow. this HNTFUYF was chock full of information and entertainment! Love hotels!! I adore Japan. and I do love the smiling mask photo. Thank you so much !
Neonatal foreskin cream… pass!