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I don’t get many emails from desperate readers; mostly you’re curious or maybe a little confused (understandably) about certain product or procedure claims. But I recently received an email from a most frustrated reader who couldn’t find a moisturizer that “sank into her skin.” She tried everything, she says, from serums to heavy creams to oils—but nothing worked against the persistent dryness. Moved by her plea, I emailed dermatologist Heidi Waldorf for advice.
And boy, did she have advice! And product recommendations! A bonanza of “heideas” for parched people everywhere!
HNTFUYF is a payola-free zone. I get no cut from sales when I mention a product. I share this so you know my recommendations are offered without obligation. The beauty advice in this post is free. But for full access to all posts and the extensive archives, please become a paid subscriber at the currently discounted rate of $40/year. Can’t afford a subscription? Write to me at valeriemonroe@substack.com and I’ll give you a comp (no questions asked). 🙏
Below, a slightly edited version of Waldorf’s response.
To start at the sink: First, make sure your cleanser isn’t disrupting the stratum corneum, the epidermal layer of dead skin cells that provides a healthy barrier. Without that barrier, there’s no obstacle to transepidermal water loss (loss of hydration through the epidermis). I ask patients how their skin feels after washing; if it feels tight (unless that’s due to a necessary medicated cleanser), they’re using the wrong cleanser. I love Neostrata Foaming Glycolic Wash, Caudalie Vinoclean Instant Foaming Cleanser, Caudalie Vinoclean Gentle Cleansing Almond Milk, La Roche-Posay Toleriane Hydrating Gentle Facial Cleanser, La Roche-Posay Lipikar Wash Ap+ Moisturizing Body & Face Wash, and even old fashioned Dove bar soap.
Bottom-line: Do not strip your skin at the sink. [You can read more excellent advice about face-washing here.]
Now that your face is clean but unstripped, apply a hyaluronic acid serum before your moisturizing sunscreen or moisturizer. [Val here: I don’t generally suggest using a serum, but this advice is for the very dry.] Hyaluronic acid acts like a microscopic sponge and holds moisture in the skin. There are many drugstore options, like Neutrogena Hydro Boost Hyaluronic Acid Serum and L'Oréal Revitalift 1.5% Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum.
Don’t skip this next step: Always apply a moisturizer over the serum, because serums don’t contain ingredients that seal in moisture.
What should you look for in a moisturizer? You want a cream or lotion containing humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid, (again, to pull in and retain moisture); occlusives like butters or oils to help to seal in moisture; and emollients like dimethicone to give skin a silky feel. I don’t recommend using oils alone—they can only seal in moisture that’s already there, not add more. I’ve had a lot of success with Alastin Ultra Nourishing Moisturizer and their Ultra Light Moisturizer, because they’re easily absorbed and contain Alastin’s proprietary trihex peptide complex, which supports the maintenance and rejuvenation of elastin and collagen. Or you might try the Caudalie Vinosource-Hydra S.O.S Intense Moisturizer, La Roche-Posay Toleriane Double Repair Face Moisturizer, or La Roche-Posay Lipikar AP+M Triple Repair Body Moisturizer for Dry Skin (which works for the face and body). Less expensive but equally effective is CeraVe PM Facial Moisturizing Lotion with niacinamide and a light texture that absorbs easily. [Val butting in here again: I use CeraVe PM over a retinoid at night and like it a lot.] Avène moisturizers are also good.
If your face has dry, itchy spots, you could try an over-the-counter 1% hydrocortisone cream twice a day.
But when you’ve been a stellar student of moisturizing and your complexion refuses to reward you, it’s time to see your dermatologist. The problem could be related to sun damage or another dermatologic condition.
Please give a big, well-moisturized hand to Dr. Waldorf for generously sharing her time and expertise. (And her product-love.)
💵 💵 💵
I recently had the pleasure of talking with Jean Chatzky and answering listener questions on her terrific podcast HerMoney. You can find the fun here.
A Housekeeping Moment
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HNTFUYF, a Payola-Free Zone
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Val Asks You
Don’t be shy! What’s your most vexing or intractable appearance issue? Send your beauty-related questions to valeriemonroe@substack.com. If I don’t have a good answer, I’ll find someone who does.
YEEEEEEeee gods! Thank you, VAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks! And a question. How long do you wait between retinoid and moisturizer application?